A week in Durmitor 1/2

After a morning bus from Podgorica, I arrive at Zabljak and head to the hostel. It’s the first one ever where I plan to stay in for one week: « Hey« . « Hello, am I expecting you?« . « Yes« . « Oh, you must be Akram« . How great is that to arrive at a place and someone already knows your name? I already felt like home. Alex takes care of Hostel Hikers Den with his brother Stefan (and usually his wife Gina but she is taking care of their baby, a shame I didn’t meet her).

7 days later, I was so happy to see that the bus going to Belgrade would pass by the hostel one last time. One last time I’d see one of my homes. What happened during those 7 days for Hikers Den to become my favorite hostel ever? To summarize, the surroundings (hiking and biking trips) made 50% of my experience, and the atmosphere at the hostel made the other 50%. Alex, Stefan, but also a lot of new friends, some of which I saw again in Belgrade and Budapest. Every day someone new was coming, but I never felt like repeating my story over and over (ivory coast/lebanon/events management/21) like I sometimes do at other hostels. We cooked dinners, exchanged music, socialized around drinks and had some drunk burek every night (as well as some « burekfast »).

Day 1 – I just arrived, Alex shows me my bed, I put my stuff and come down for some explanations. It’s already mid-afternoon but I want to try a hike. Alex shows me all of them, and I pick the classical-touristy one because it’s basically the only one I can do this late: Crno Jezero aka The Black Lake. It’s really a beautiful place but there are really a ton of people. Big buses come from Kotor and other places and waves of tourists come to appreciate the lake and its surroundings, and some walk around. It takes me around 4h to go around Crno Jezero, but also check Zminje Jezero and Barno Jezero (which I didn’t properly see but whatever!). This first day was just a test but it was a beautiful one. One thing that amazes me is the relationship between hikers. There’s always a « hi » when you cross someone’s path. I met 3 serbian guys who were biking (would’ve been impossible for me), as well as 2 french ladies who were chilling by Zminje. It’s a more secluded lake surrounded by giant pine trees… very beautiful setting to relax. On the Black Lake, some people where swimming, other were kayaking. The lake wasn’t black though.
I go back to the hostel and meet with my first two pals: Kostya and Loly. The first two people I met, and two of the people I’ll see again.

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Crno Jezero
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Near Barno Jezero
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Zminje Jezero
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On the trail

The first night is amazing, everyone drinking, talking about their day trip and just socializing. That’s where Kostya and I meet with Philippa who tells us that she and Aimee are aiming for Bobotov Kuk the next day. We accept, most of the others having done it today, and the girls having rent a car so it’s easier to get to the starting point of the hike.

Day 2- Philippa, Aimee, Kostya and I go to the starting point. We park the car and start the hike at about 11? not really sure. But the sure thing is that the hike from Sledno to Bobotov Kuk is amazing. Sceneries from start to finish, different kind of mountains (one was shaped as if a river was there centuries ago), of rocks, some small ponds, a lake during the hike and a bigger one that we could see from the top… It’s a 6h hike, the ending was « dangerous » but not difficult. At the top, you have an amazing view. On our way up, we meet Jesse, an american travelling by himself and he joins the group, joins the hostel and I’ll even see him in Budapest one week ater along with Philippa! The pictures will tell all about the diversity of the landscape. All I can say is that it’s a little bit challenging but definitely worth it.

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First view after a few minutes

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Some ice now and then
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First time I see a mountain shaped like that

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At the top

 

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